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When curating a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might expect familiar award-winning establishments. Yet, situated high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a outlying part of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

This small Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. The honour has left the owners completely astonished.

“I am utterly astonished,” remarks a family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their humble place earning such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its earlier character. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the fare, and this establishment more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent quality.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning outside its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic honour.